Darks spots are one of the biggest beauty concerns among women today.  In order to get the 411 on this huge concern, I

contacted NYC dermatologist Dr. Adam Geyer.

 

Ron:  What causes dark spots?

 

Dr. Geyer:  Melanin is the pigment that imparts the visible color that we see in our skin.  The levels of melanin increase in

response to exposure to UV light (this is why we get tan) and serves as a defense against further damage from UV radiation. 

 

Dark spots (or hyperpigmentation) are caused by

 

1) over-production of melanin

2) increased or irregular distribution of melanin

3) increased retention of melanin in skin cells 

 

Ron:  Are there different types of dark spots?

 

 Dr. Geyer:  Yes, dark spots can be characterized as either localized or diffuse.  

Localized dark spots can form as small, defined spots.  These include the spots that form after having an acne breakout.

Diffuse dark spots are less defined and can cover larger areas of the face.  These are more commonly seen in patients with

a high degree of UV exposure and in individuals with skin of color.

 

Ron:  How do you prevent dark spots on the face?

 

Dr. Geyer:  Most, but not all of the dark spots that we develop on the face are entirely preventable!  True, dark spots

(such as moles) come from our genetics, others come from inflammation in the skin (such as from old acne marks), but

most are derived from the cumulative effect that UV radiation has on our facial skin. The first and most important step in

preventing these spots is to use a sunscreen every day.  I cannot emphasize enough that sunscreen is the most essential

component of any skin care regimen and it is the primary defense against developing unwanted brown spots.

  

Ron:  Are products that contain Hydroquinone good for treating dark spots?

 

Dr. Geyer:  Hydroquinone has traditionally been a key ingredient in many skin brighteners and bleaching creams. It is available

in over the counter preparations in the US in 2% concentrations, and by prescription at 4%. However, hydroquinone has been

banned in many countries in Europe and Asia because of studies showing a possible carcinogenic effect of the agent when given

systemically to animals, and there is a proposal in front of the FDA here in the US to ban use of this ingredient in new over the

counter products. Though the risk of malignancy from the use of hydroquinone is thought to be exceedingly rare, if at all,

hydroquinone-free alternatives are increasingly being sought.  

 

Potent Hydroquinone-free ingredients known to brighten the skin's appearance include vitamin C, licorice, calcium pantetheine sulfonate, arbutin, kojic acid, ellagic acid, soy, and mequinol and alpha hydroxy acids.  However, I must reinforce that any attempt to fade pigmentation must be coupled with rigorous sun protection- otherwise progress will be minimal.

 

Ron:  Do you have any final tips?

 

Dr. Geyer:  Yes, here are 6 useful tips.

 

1)      Use a broad spectrum UV protector 365 days per year is a must.  Reapply your sunscreen if outside more than 3-4 hours.

      This is important in terms of prevention, but also to prevent recurrence of brown spots that have already been treated.  If re-

      applying sunscreen during the day is difficult because make-up is worn, consider switching to a tinted moisturizer with SPF.

2)      In addition to the daily use of an appropriate sunscreen- efforts should be made to wear sun protective clothing when outdoors

      - such as hats and long-sleeved, breathable clothing- and to limit extended outdoor recreational exposure during peak mid day

      hours, when UV rays are most intense.

3)      Exfoliate your skin (either mechanically or chemically) at night.  This not only helps to encourage removal of retained melanin in

      the skin, but it will allow the other active ingredients in your regimen to penetrate deeper and work better to remove the brown

      spots.  Doing so at night will help to minimize any added photosensitivity of the skin during daytime hours.

4)      Products with vitamin C are great for morning application as they have both antioxidant and natural photo-protective effects.

5)      If using a Hydroquinone base product, care should be taken when applying the agent to avoid developing a light halo around the

      existing darks spot by applying medication too liberally.

6)      Be patient! There is no quick fix. Fading of brown spots usually takes months- so stick with your regimen and even consider taking

      some “before” pictures so you can see just how much progress you are making. 

 

  Dr. Adam Geyer is a board certified dermatologist specializing in medical and cosmetic dermatology. He is a fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology and an Instructor in Clinical Dermatology at Columbia University.http://www.adamgeyermd.com/ Ron Robinson is a research and development executive who for the past 20 years has worked for of the world’s leading beauty companies.  He is the the founder of BeautyStat.com.  A beauty social network and information resource that provides personalized beauty recommendations.

http://www.beautystat.com